bout de papier, Vol. 32, No. 1 (2022), pp. 35–37
TACOS. “You cannot make everyone happy. You are not a taco.” That’s one of my favourite memes. I was walking my dog recently, thinking about food (as one does) and it occurred to me: tacos are one of the world’s most perfect foods.
rHINK ABOUT IT. They have something for everyone. Approachable. Scaleable. Tons of flavour. Any meal of the day. You can make it meaty, seafoodian, veggie or vegan. Start from scratch or get everything you need pre-made. Gluten-or dairy-free, if you wish. And so delicious and satisfying.
My concept of tacos used to be ground beef and seasoning from a packet. Good, but not great. That’s called a “gringo taco”. And that’s fair, because that’s not how those from the birthplace of tacos — Mexico — eat them. Tacos were invented before the arrival of Europeans, though there is also the theory that Mexican silver miners invented them much later, naming them after the small explosive charges of gunpowder wrapped in paper used for mining. As Mexicans emigrated to the US, they introduced tacos to an adoring American public. For the popularization of the crispy corn taco shell, you can thank … Taco Bell. Really. Taco Bell didn’t come up with it, but it did bring the taco to the masses.
I was lucky enough to travel to Mexico City a few years ago, so I got to see how it’s really done.
More accurately, one of the ways it’s done, as tacos are amazingly — and delightfully — regional. Check out Netflix’s Taco Chronicles for a fantastic overview, if you are interested. My favourite taco discovery in Mexico was the al Pastor, which I had never heard of before. Spiced pork, roasted and sliced thin from the rotating spit and a slice of grilled pineapple, with onions, cilantro and a selection of salsas. As good as it is, Mexico cannot claim sole credit for the al Pastor: it was created by Lebanese immigrants to Mexico! The glorious shawarma intersecting with the Mexican taco. Magic.
One thing that struck me in Mexico City is that the taco features only a few flavours, combined well, rather than the “all-dressed” style we tend to employ in North America. No lettuce. No tomato or sour cream. Meat, cheese, onion, cilantro and salsa. The taco is not overflowing or soggy, just a perfect handheld parcel. So that’s what I often replicate at home. But the great thing about tacos is that you can make them whatever you want them to be — make them however it makes you happy!
Recipe // Recette: Tacos
The tortillas
THE TORTILLAS Your first choice is whether you prefer flour or com tortillas. Buy them or make them. Both are easy to make. it’s a matter of preference. Com tortillas require masa harina (gluten free!). which is limed corn flour available in some grocery stores, health food stores and places like Bulk Barn. Flour tortillas can be made with all purpose white flour.
CORN My favourite. To make corn tortillas. pour some masa harina into a bowl. add a pinch of salt and then enough room-temperature water to make a soft dough. No need to measure and no worries about working the dough too much — since there is no gluten in the corn flour, the dough won’t get tough. It takes a bit of practice to figure out the right amount of water to add. but I’ve found that developing that feel works better than measuring according to a recipe, since the weather and your kitchen can affect how much liquid is needed. Knead the dough on the counter for a couple of minutes. Form the dough into a ball and invert the bow! on top to keep the moisture in. Let rest 15 minutes on the countertop. divide into golf ball-sized pieces (or smaller, if you want to do it the way it’s done in Mexico), then let rest under the bow! again for about 10 minutes. This gives the masa time to absorb the moisture better and results in a better tortilla. If you don’t have time, just mix and roll ‘em out!
FLOUR There are so many great uses for flour tortillas — tacos, fajitas, enchiladas and quesadillas, just for a start. l’ve seen some bloggers say they use them for quick pizzas. which seems like a great idea for emergency snacks (my hunger qualifies as an emergency), even if just with sauce and cheese. I often make extras and freeze them in pairs in a freezer bag, with parchment paper placed between the pairs to keep them from sticking. I do find that they get freezer burned quite quickly, so try to keep the air out and use them within a month or two.
To make flour tortillas, use about % cup of flour per tortilla, add a bit of salt (let’s say about ‘a tsp for every six tortillas). a small glug of oil or lard (I’ve used canola and olive oil successfully. Use what you like), and then enough boiling water to form a smooth, non-sticky dough. Stir as well as possible, then let cool until comfortable to touch. Knead for about a minute. just to ensure the flour is uniform and silky. Then invert the bowl over the dough and let rest for 15-30 minutes. Cut into golf ball sized pieces and invert the bow! again for about 10 minutes.
From here. you treat either type of tortilla the same. Heat a cast iron frying pan (you are going to dry fry, so don’t add anything to the pan) over medium heat. Squash and roll out each ball to about 1/8”-44″ thickness, keeping the others covered. I like to use a bench scraper to smoothly transfer each to the frying pan. Check to see if it has developed some nice brown spots after about a minute. If so, give it a flip and repeat. I usually like to re-flip one more time. giving it about 30 seconds. When you finish, sandwich it into foil and a dish towel. This is probably the most important step — they will steam and soften to become foldable. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck with stiff tortillas that will crack when you fill them. Still delicious. but not the experience you’re looking for.
The meat (or other filling), and the toppings
In my mind, this is the soul of the taco, it determines the biggest aspect of your taco’s flavour profile. And you can use whatever you like! Pulled pork or chicken make for a succulent taco. Shredded beef works really well here too. But you can also use sliced meat, either purpose roasted or leftovers, which provide your hands with a less messy experience. Use tofu or a meat substitute if that’s what you prefer. I usually try to use a southwestern flavour profile, which includes chili powder, cumin and Mexican oregano. And don’t forget the salt — this is your main vehicle for enhancing the flavour. If you’re having people over, maybe do two different fillings for variety. Seriously, aren’t you craving tacos right now?
THE TOPPINGS Again, use whatever you love. I must have pico de gallo and cheese (usually aged cheddar, but feta or a more authentic fresh crumbly white cheese are also lovely). Chopped cilantro and diced onion are favourite additions from Mexico City. But you could also use refried beans, sour cream, Cabbage (dressed in vinaigrette or not: pulled pork with dressed cabbage is awesome), chopped tomatoes or any kind of shredded greens. Arugula would be fantastic. If you usually fully load your taco, try adding just one sauce and one or two additional ingredients. The whole experience changes because you focus on only a few elements.
That’s it. Easy. Enjoy just one or as many as you like. Throw the leftovers in the fridge and enjoy again tomorrow (or re-purpose them to make something else, like enchiladas). Yes. Tacos. Go make them.
Originally published in bout de papier, Vol. 32, No. 1 (2022), pp. 35–37. Read the rest of this issue →
